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Tonga review:

NUKU’ALOFA – Liked the town, Tony’s family connection, Liz’s place, The Waterfront -great.

NOMUKA IKA/NOMUKA- very pleasant islands, beautiful anchorage, great yacht club, complete with canon and flagpole. Very rough tracks passing for roads (Nomuka)

HA’APAI GROUP – Anchored in Pangai (capital of Ha’apai), friendly locals, pigs and dogs roam the streets, great snorkelling, typical Pacific island look, and the free papaya whacked from trees. Great local bar, Mariner Bar.

VAVA’U – VHF radio 26 local info & weather, small boat marina to park your dinghy, beautiful clear water of Port Maurelle, weaving through the coral reefs to the outer islands, Swallows Cave, Lisa beach, other than Palangi who owned businesses, the locals in Neiafu didn’t make you feel particularly welcome.

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GPS: 13 49.800S 171 45.804W

Run: 365nm (660.7km)
Avg: 3knts
24hr: 72.4nm

The sun set on Tonga and we headed north disillusioned and down in the mouth with our last impressions of Tonga. As you know we have a fantastic time so far. Andrew had ordered a parcel containing boat parts, a gopro and storage for all these photos and video. The parcel arrived Vava’u within a week via FedEx BUT we could not get the parcel until the boat papers and passport were copied and sent to Nuku’alofa to be stamped by the CEO. This took till Friday – 7 days. No, it was emailed not posted. So on Friday we were ready to pick up the parcel and leave for Niuas islands – north Tonga. We had heard quite a bit about these islands, more remote and not as touristy so appealed to us. We were told we could go there so Tony changed some more money to Tongan Pangai and we bought some exercise books and pencils to take for the kids. Then we were told we could only get the boat parts and pick up the rest when we sign out of all of Tonga. This meant sailing 2.5 days to the Niuas, look around there then sail 2.5 days back to pick up the parcel and sign out. Or leave the parcel and sign out of Tonga at the Niuas and carry on up to Samoa.

So we opted to miss the Niuas and sign out at Vava’u. We were told to come back at 12 noon as the person that signed the exit clearance paper was at the airport and wouldn’t be back till then. Back at 12. They were at lunch. Andrew trundled back and was informed that our Visa expired on Thursday. We were unaware of this because when booking in, in Nuku’alofa we were asked and said we would be in Tonga for 1.5 months and received an official receipt stating we paid for 1.5 months and exit date would be 12 July, but the passports were stamped for 1 month (didn’t see this – lesson learnt check ALL the documents).

So a trip to immigration and $250 later we returned to customs, and paid port fees. We finally got signed out. Then we had to pay FedEx $61 for export fee and broker fee. All up Tonga has cost over $600 to get in and out of and we missed the two northern islands. It’s sad that this was last impression we have of our visit to Tonga.

We are now in Samoa ready for our next experience.

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GPS: 18 39.503S 173 59.438W

Run: 2.8nm (5.1km)

We are back in Neiafu where Andrew has filled in the paperwork to receive a FedEx package from Auckland and now has to wait 2 to 3 days for the papers to be stamped so he can pick up the parcel.

The World Arc have arrived with a large flotilla of boats, so it’s time to leave. After waiting for another good weather window we will be leaving over the weekend (if we get the package). We will be heading north to Niua islands the northern most Tongan islands. Before the end of the month we will be in Western Samoa and back with internet.

From Samoa we will head to Isles of Wallis and Fortuna before sailing south to Fiji. We then have from mid July to the beginning of August for Tony to explore Fiji before he has to head back to work (that dirty 4 letter word). Tony and Stella scored some beer at a good price from a yacht due to leave for Fiji that had over the limit of beer to take in there. Tony went for a walk up Mt Talau this afternoon which was quite steep and strenuous and slippery after last night’s rain. We are all struggling with the humidity last night and today. Had a huge downpour last night but not much wind. Looking forward to doing some more sailing.

Bye for now.

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GPS: 18 41.854S 173 59.886W

Run: 1.8nm (3.3km)

After sailing to the outer islands and Tony trawling for fish most of the day (practising), we ventured to the Eastern bays of Vava’u maneuvering our way through the coral reefs. Andrew climbed the mast for better view to guide us through whilst Sue took the helm. Tony and Stella also did lookout. Maneuvering through the reef we discovered the channel markers were no longer there and sand banks had appeared which didn’t show on the charts. Vital to have lookouts in these areas.

Spent two days looking around the islands in the Eastern bay area. Nice beaches but not great snorkelling and at one of them an over abundance of sea slugs (sea cucumbers) which Sue and Stella found most disgusting and it made it hard to walk to the beach. As the weather is predicted to get high winds from the east we decided to leave the eastern bays and seek shelter at Lisa beach.

As the ocean swell has increased we chose to take a different route from the eastern bays. Once again the channel markers were non existent and sand bars not charted. Everyone was holding their breath as the depth sounder counted down from 10 metres to below 1 metre under the boat. With the winds getting up it made it interesting moving between the bommies, passing one as close as 2 metres off the port side. Upon anchoring at Lisa beach Sue required a stiff drink!

Tonight we were treated to an amazing sunset followed by as Tony put it “one of the best meals in this trip” – mini spring rolls and a fantastic fried rice dish from Stella that had us all going back for seconds!

Night from us all 

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GPS: 18 41.310S 174 01.416W

Run: 5.6nm (10.1km)

Yesterday morning Hannah and Tony went for a walk. Whilst they were away the guys on Essence approached us to see if we could take some Panadol to one of the locals – David – whose wife had a headache. When Andrew took them across he asked if there was anything else they needed and David asked if we had any fresh water. (They have to go to Neiafu to get fresh water). Andrew came back and filled up some water bottles for them and was given some coconuts, lemons and limes.

We then went back to Neiafu as Hannah was due to catch her flight to Fiji the next day. We had a nice dinner at Mangoes in Neiafu the last night for our 5 crew team and caught up on some emails etc utilising the free internet they offer.

Andrew dropped Hannah off at the wharf this morning, along with some laundry that we would pick up later. Then we all went across to do some food shopping and to sort out boat things, phones etc. We got totally soaked going back to the boat. It was definitely a challenge getting a tray of fresh eggs in a soggy cardboard tray back to the boat! With the wind picking up our boat had dragged anchor a bit. Rather than end up on the rocks we decided to move. Laundry wasn’t ready until 3.30pm so after lunch Andrew and Tony went back for it whilst Sue and Stella manouevered the boat until the lads came back.

We then left for our current anchorage on Mala. Hamburgers for tea tonight with fresh buns and produce from the markets. Another new expression for Stella – when Sue hiccupped and said it sounded like she had “been on the turps”. !

Night all

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GPS: 18 43.312S 174 06.075W

Run: 4.8nm (8.7km)

We had a third day at Port Maurelle snorkelling around the reefs. Tony saw a large turtle and also got stung by a jellyfish! It is amazing how clear the water is in this bay. So many beautiful and interesting coral and fish. We are so lucky to be in such a beautiful area. In the afternoon we took the dinghy across to Swallows Cave which is absolutely stunning. The colours of the water in the cave were incredible. We had been advised to go around 3pm to get the best light and we did. Stella had her Go pro under the water and got some amazing footage. The inside of the cave was fascinating as well the rock formations, stalactites etc.

Yesterday morning we set off to find Mariners Cave another great snorkelling place but hard to find as the entrance is underwater even at low tide. Hannah and Tony swam off the back of Imagine over to the rocky shore but were not sure enough that it was the entrance to try diving down and up. However we did see some dolphins which were diving around the bow of the boat. We overnighted at Nuapapu Matamaka and snorkelled again. We had another bbq and enjoyed dinner out on the deck watching the beautiful sunset and enjoying watching the flying foxes.

We spent some more time snorkelling this morning where we saw some cool things including another sea snake but were met with a constant barrage of tiny jellyfish stings that could be compared to constant static shocks and some in places they should not have been! This afternoon we moved to Baka’eitu. When we arrived another boat was in the bay which turned out to be Essence (whom we’ve seen a few times on our travels so far). This evening Stu and Pamela from Essence (along with their friends Carolyn and Brent who have flown up to join them for a week) came over for drinks, nibbles and to share stories. After they went back to their boat we enjoyed a lovely beef peanut curry dish that Hannah made. Maybe another movie tonight that Tony can fall asleep in!

Night all

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GPS: 18 42.042S 174 01.897W

Run: 4nm (7.2km)

Hello from Port Maurelle, Vava’u.

We left Pangai the day before yesterday about 4pm and sailed overnight to Vava’u arriving early hours yesterday morning.

After another confusing check in we were free to look around the town. Stella was extremely disappointed as no pigs wandering the streets. Had dinner last night on a floating restaurant called The Hideaway where we met another few boaties and had mahimahi fish and chips. This morning we provisioned for a few days and then upped anchor and motored to the beautiful bay we are now in. We snorkelled in the most beautiful pristine of spots, saw lots of different coloured and interesting fish including lion fish and other fish we don’t know what they are with some gorgeous coral. Had a bottle of red wine and our first bbq since we left NZ as it was the first time the wind was light enough.

We saw black flying foxes that we can still hear now in the trees. Looking forward to spending another night here and exploring the forest and coves around this bay. For those thinking of coming here a note that if you anchor here you need to pay 15 TOP (or if you use one of the mooring buoys it is 20 TOP) – this is for 3 nights but if you leave for the day and come back you pay again)

Night from us all

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GPS: 18 39.430S 173 59.478W

Run: 82.3nm (149km)
Avg: 2.8knts
24hr: 67nm

Yesterday afternoon we left Pangai sailing through the night to Vava’u.

The evening brought a clear star filled night with 1/2m swell and a 15 knot breeze. We arrived at dawn and found an anchorage. It took till after 1pm to find customs and get processed. We are just seeing what to do next.