The wind had dropped by this morning, so we headed off to explore a motu on the outer part of the reef. Andrew sent up the drone and we found a hole in the reef a local had told Tony about. We will be back tomorrow with the dive and snorkel gear. On the way back we checked out another couple of motu’s.
We got back to the boat to find the harbour was getting crowded. Another boat had arrived. After lunch we went for another swim and spent the afternoon sitting on the foredeck under the sun shade and thought about you lot hard at work ? It must be time for a coconut and pineapple drink laced with vodka while we watch the sunset.
Yesterday was Bastille Day celebrations in Wallis (Bastille Day is today).
We started the day snorkelling off one of the many Motus here. The edge of the reef went from .5m to 40m, which made for a great array of fish and coral. After lunch we moved the boat back into the harbour, so we could go ashore in the evening.
In the evening the waterfront area was crowded with locals (and four boat people). There was a couple of food stalls, a band and 3 groups of traditional dancers, all of which was being filmed by the local (one and only) Wallis TV station.
Unfortunately the night was interrupted by a sudden downpour, which left everyone sodden. At this point we realised that we had left all the hatches on the boat open (wet beds). Being soaking wet and a 10 to 15 knot breeze, we were cooling down fast. So we decided to head back to the boat.
Upon reaching our dinghy tied up to the wharf and seeing the choppy water, Tony decided not to go back to Imagine. So Andrew, Sue and Stella headed off into the dark, while Tony went back to watch the rest of the dancing.
The trio made it back to Imagine soaked in salt water, whilst Tony talked a local family into putting him up for the night.
This morning Andrew picked Tony up from the wharf and as the wind and waves are a bit high, we all have had a lazy day.
This morning we all went snorkelling in aqua coloured water on the nearby reef. Some beautiful coral and fish were seen. This afternoon Tony and Stella went exploring the motu.
Upon returning late afternoon we were approached by 2 French men on a jet ski. The one that could speak English explained he was making a short movie where the opening scene was a man falling off a yacht. As we appear to be the only yacht currently in Wallis he asked if he could shoot the scene on Imagine. We agreed and he went off to get his actor. Obviously he had trouble finding him as it’s now too dark to film anything and they haven’t returned. Maybe we will see them in the morning. Stay tuned!
This morning we cleared with customs and the gendarmerie and we headed into town. We went to the island’s only bank to get the exchange rate and for Stella to withdraw some money. Once again her card would not work, so she then spent the next 3 hours trying to get internet to contact her bank.
Sue, Tony and Andrew looked around the shopping complex (hardware shop, supermarket, bank, dress shop and coffee shop). The wind had got up by the time we got back to the boat, so we moved south to a more sheltered spot behind another motu. A short dinghy ride to the beach and we were in the water for a swim while Tony headed off to explore the island. We got back to Imagine at 5pm just in time for drinks and nibbles whilst watching another sunset.
We made it with 40 minutes to spare before the tide was ripping through the gap in the reef. Again with Sue at the helm and Andrew up the mast, and Stella and Tony on lookout, we negotiated the reef with a side on swell and lots of eddy currents to the inner reef.
Sue is becoming a master at negotiating these reefs saying this reef was much easier than the last although actually being a narrower pass. She just now has to negotiate reefs without constantly repeating “shit shit shit”! Although we made the opening in time for the tide we did not make it in time for customs so will clear customs tomorrow and spend the night next to one of the motus (islands).
Behind the island on the left you can see the gape we had to get through.
Overnight we encountered a few small squalls. The wind slowly went from 22 knots down to 10 knots. A pod of 5 dolphins swam alongside for a while this morning.
The sea has been very calm 1/2m swell. At about 10.30am a squall came through raising the wind speed to 18 knots, then moved from behind us where it had been all night to directly in front of us and dropped to 6 knots. So we have been motoring all day. We have to make it to Wallis by 11am tomorrow so we catch the tide and are able to get inside the reef. If we are too late we have to wait for high tide Thursday, as we can’t get in in the dark.
As there wasn’t anything else to do Andrew thought he would have a go at practising fishing. So it’s baked beans on toast for tea tonight.
Tonight we have been treated to another spectacular sunset.
Last night Tony and Stella went to the opening ceremony of the Pacific Island Games. For 5Tala (about 3NZD) they got to sit with all the local people in the mud. It was a joyful upbeat extravaganza. The athletes were doing their cultural dances competing for bragging rights. NZ did an average haka to the crowd. After lots of dancing, singing and speeches the evening finished with a fireworks display that Andrew and Sue watched from the boat. After 7 days anchored in Apia Harbour not being able to swim we were all eager for the break in the weather.
This morning started with a trip to shore for a quick shower and Andrew went to Immigration, then Customs to clear out out of port.
Friday, 5th July. During our weather forced delay, this week we all did different things to enjoy being in Samoa.
Tony went by bus to the northwest of Upolo to an area called Manono-uta where he was picked up by Leota, his brother and grandson on their family catamaran and taken to their fale resort on the amazing island of Manono. Manono is a reef enclosed haven that takes approx 1.5 hours to walk around. Tony was shown generous hospitality. A highlight was joining in the family’s short service before their meal with prayer, meditation and harmonious singing.
On return he was so tired out, went to sleep about 9.30pm only to wake at 2am with a very uncomfortable left elbow. Tony had somehow picked up an infection that by 4am had caused the elbow to swell to about the size of an egg. Having to be fit for our upcoming Monday departure for Wallis, Andrew and Tony headed off to get to the hospital asap. After a 2.5km taxi ride and resting in the waiting room until 6.30am, Tony was seen by the doctor and given antibiotics, all up only costing 46 Tala. As you can’t keep a good man down Tony and Stella headed off to shop more exploring of Apia, spending time at Robert Louis Stephenson’s mansion, gardens and climbing up to the top of the hill to visit his grave. Apart from short visits to the city centre, Andrew and Sue have spent time on getting boat ready for our next lot of travels to Wallis and Fiji.
The marina in Apia is pretty full with everyone waiting for breaks in the weather. Although we are anchored out we paid a small sum to the marina so we could leave our dinghy there when going ashore and to utilise their shower and toilet facilities. A note for any boats visiting Apia if you anchor in the harbour you have to pay a fee to the Apia port authority. It has been great also meeting other yachties and their families particularly with so many boats in this week. The Seafood Gourmet restaurant across the road from the marina has had a lot of patronage this week and the adjoining ice cream shop has been so busy they have run out of some TipTop ice cream flavours until the next supply comes in about a month. No it’s not just us but Apia has been busier this week with athletes etc arriving for the Pacific games that starts with the opening ceremony this Sunday. They have been rehearsing this week so we have been treated to some light displays and some interesting music!
We are still in Apia. Having a look at the weather before setting off, showed the swell was predicted to get higher than previously predicted. This would have made it an uncomfortable trip to Wallis, so Andrew decided to leave departing till the next weather window. A good decision after talking with other yachties just arrived who’ve had high winds and swells, some even sustained damage on their way here. The next weather window at this stage looks to be next Monday at the moment.
Time to do a bit more exploring of Upulo and to catch up on some work on the boat. The South Pacific games are being held here commencing 7th July so there is a lot of athletes arriving and a lot of work being done by the Samoans to welcome the athletes. Had torrential rain yesterday followed by a stunning sunset last night.
We are getting recognised in Apia – Stella by the samosa guys and Andrew by the homemade lemonade guy!
Sunday 30th June. Arrived back in Apia Friday afternoon. Dropped off some laundry to be done then some supermarket shopping. We went for a relaxing dinner at the seafood restaurant across the road from the marina (mostly frequented by locals). Had a great dinner, sat back and enjoyed the breeze. Stella tried the local delicacy Oka which is raw fish marinated in coconut cream and onions. Tony chowed down on a seafood chowder, Sue had seafood platter and Andrew had lobster mornay (a very late birthday present from Sue!!). There is an icecream shop next door which also happens to be part of the restaurant. They have a wide range of icecream and a good selection of cheesecakes but we were too full to have any dessert that night.
Saturday we headed off to the markets early to try to beat the heat. We came across the bus station with the wonderful local buses. After the markets we headed back to the boat to get away from the heat. Tony stayed out for a bit longer to check out the stadium for the Pacific Games which start next week. That evening Sue and Andrew headed back to shore in the rain to check out the icecream shop whilst Tony and Stella stayed on board to watch a movie. Saturday evening the rain started and hasn’t stopped since. During the night there was high winds, thunder and lightning.
Today, Sunday is lazy day with everyone trying to catch up on photos, emails etc with a slight interruption when we looked out the window and found a big red tugboat almost coming to join us for morning tea! The red tugboat was anchored with a large barge next to us. The tugboat communicated with the boat anchored on our port side suggesting it moved as the barge had dragged an anchor. After a while the boat came back and advised they had to wait for captain and crew to get to the boat before they could move! We were watching as the barge came closer to that boat and Andrew decided we should probably look at moving and giving the tug and barge more room to manoeuvre. Two hours later we re-anchored only a short time later to hear the tug advising it had to go out again as something had jammed their prop and only one of their engines were working. They have now re-anchored and we are back to finish off today’s blog.
Tomorrow we are looking at leaving Apia, weather dependent, for the Isle of Wallis which is about 3 days sail away.
