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GPS: 17 45.430S 177 23.273E

Well we risked our lives again. We caught a local bus into Nadi. Sue was a little concerned about the loud bang every time the bus sped up or slowed down (faulty universal on drive shaft or shackles on rear springs). The bus could have done with new (or even old) shock absorbers. It would have stopped the body roll and bouncing. The automatic door flew open every time the bus slowed down and closed when speeding up. I can say it went into gear smoothly, at least twice during the trip.

The buses are quite cheap FJ$1.11 per person each way to Nadi, but you do need to have purchased an “ecard” before you get on the bus (not as easy as it sounds in some places?). Bus drivers are not supposed to accept cash although some still do but there are heavy fines if one of the inspectors catch you paying cash. Although the driver seemed to be very friendly with the few locals that had forgotten their bus card as he shook their hands!

Anyway we survived! We got more provisions for the trip and headed back to the boat (we chose a better bus this time although Sue would dispute that as the seat didn’t quite have all the screws it should have had to secure it!)

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We are now in Denarau.

We left Musket Cove this morning in beautiful sunshine but not much wind so we motored the short distance to Denarau. We put the dinghy in the water to go ashore and Andrew was just stepping down the ladder to wash his foot as a bit of petrol had spilt on it when he exclaimed “oh shit” as he just about stepped onto a black and white sea snake (see picture) which had it’s head raised towards said foot! These snakes are one of the most venomous snakes but apparently they can’t open their mouth wide enough to bite anything more than your little pinky but who wants to test that theory!

Had a look around Port Denarau complex and sussed out where to fill up with diesel. We also saw where to catch the buses including the Bula Bus (see picture). Tomorrow we will take the bus into Nadi and visit the markets.

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GPS: 17 46.559S 177 10.766E

Run: 85.2nm (154.2km)

Hi guys. We are on the sunny side of Fiji.

We left Suva yesterday and sailed overnight, to arrive here at Musket Cove first thing this morning. It was a good sail and with the wind behind us Imagine sailed from 5 to 7.5 knots making good headway until about 4 this morning when the wind speed dropped to 6 knots. We need 10 knots to get Imagine going, so it was motor time. Musket Cove is a resort and marina on Malololailai island just west of Nadi.

This anchorage is very popular as there are about 30 boats here at the moment. Week of 12 September this year they will hold the annual yacht regatta which is extremely popular and there will be a load more boats then. Fortunately we should be in Vanuatu by then! First thing we did when we arrived was go for a swim off the back of the boat. We haven’t been swimming in the water since we left Wallis due to either being in port where no one in their right mind would go swimming or due to bad weather. Last night we witnessed “green flash” phenomenon. It is something sailors talk about, but don’t all see. Out at sea on a calm clear evening as the sun goes down and disappears, there is a green flash. Well we wouldn’t call it a flash that lights up the sky, but as the sun disappeared over the horizon, for about a second the small bit of sun left turned green.

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Slight delay, we are still in Suva – looking at departing Monday morning to western side of Fiji.

We decided there were a few jobs we wanted to complete before setting off again. Andrew spent most of today working on making the lazarette (black hole) flush with the rest of the stern deck, giving more space and less likely for people to trip up on. He also worked on the water tank breather pipes, some of them seemed to be split and the system wasn’t working as it should. A few other odd jobs and some more tomorrow.

One of our neighbours is a 3 masted tall ship which was built in Scotland (100 years ago). She is sometimes based here and sometimes Nelson. They say there is a lot of work to do on her but are travelling to Vanuatu, NZ, Australia and then to Scotland maybe February or March next year to celebrate the 100 year anniversary. One of the crew we see quite often has been on the vessel for 7 years. He did tell us the name of the boat but we didn’t quite hear him and don’t like to keep asking, but picture is attached.

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It’s a good job we do these blogs. It’s the only way we know what day it is! First thing this morning Andrew went up the mast and fitted the new pulley and halyard and reset the staysail whilst there was no wind. I’m beginning to think he likes it up there – he went up 3 times! It scares the bejeebers out of me whilst I’m left hanging onto the rope that is making sure he won’t fall – well too far that is!

After breakfast it was off to smelly, dirty, crowded, noisy (a city) Suva. The bus trip as usual was very amusing, the traffic terrible – almost as bad as Auckland and the bus driver thought he was in a xbox game, tearing off down the road, forcing his way around the roundabout then blaring his horn for others to get out his way. We got some fruit and veg then got out of there. This afternoon we went back to Lami to do the rest of the shopping.

This evening we treated ourselves to dinner out. We went to the yacht club where there was a couple of guys playing 80’s music so we had a nice meal and live entertainment to boot. Tomorrow more maintenance work on the boat and some general cleaning. Due to lack of wind we will probably set off from here Saturday to go to the other side … ie the dry side of Fiji. Today though we had our first bit of sunshine for what seems like an awful long time!

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First thing this morning we had a police boat pull alongside. Police and Bio Security came onboard to do a spot check. First time we have had this after we have already been through entry formalities, but in a way reassuring that they do keep an eye out on who is coming and going in the harbour. I should point out they went to all the boats so it wasn’t just us looking suspect! Today after Andrew climbed up the mast, we went to get the halyard replaced. The rigging place was in a town 2km away called Lami. Of cause we had to take the bus. An air conditioned island style bus (no glass in the windows).

The bus driver we had from Labasa to Savusavu drove fast but did stop for passengers. The one we had today didn’t stop for passengers! There were roadworks some kilometres ahead and there was no way the bus driver was going to get out of the line of traffic to stop at bus stops. He did slow down but he was not going to stop. Luckily at our stop the traffic had come to a stand still for a moment and we ran into the traffic and got on. Others had to run alongside and jump on. Any stops where there was women with babies or any older people he just didn’t bother even slowing. Again luckily our stop to get off was just past the road works and he stopped to let people off.

This afternoon we were flagged down by one of the neighbouring yachts. He wondered if we could help. He couldn’t start the boat motor. Andrew went across to have a look and took our start battery and multimeter. His batteries were low from trying to start it. With our battery connected smoke started pouring out of the starter motor. He then said it had been smoking in Samoa and he had someone look at it and say it was ok. So Andrew left him pondering how to get the starter motor replaced as there was nothing further we could do. He is being towed across to the Royal Suva Yacht Club tomorrow where he can tie up to one of the pontoons and hopefully will be able to get some help.

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GPS: 18 07.327S 178 25.374E

Run: 87nm (157.5km)

Yes we are in sunny Suva, well Suva. It has rained most days since we arrived in Fiji (although apparently we are on the “wet side” of Fiji!).

The water is cold 28 deg. We haven’t been game to go for a swim yet. We have been spoiled by the Isle of Wallis. Anyway back to Suva. We arrived this morning and found an anchorage outside the Royal Yacht Club. The trip was eventful. We had calculated that it would take about 26 hours, so we didn’t set off early. This meant that averaging 5 knots we would be in Suva about lunch time. Wrong, we had the main reefed right down and ran with the small staysail and we still were reaching over 7 knots, so we arrived in the dark and had to wait around outside the reef as the pass was not marked well and is not lit. In the early hours of the morning the halyard for the staysail broke (worn through) and the sail came down. A quick wet rush out on deck secured the sail, so we ran with just the main. When we got to Suva reef we had to motor back and forth to kill time till sunrise whilst manoeuvring between half a dozen fishing boats, ferry and cargo boats! We knew we were low on fuel but couldn’t tell how low because the fuel gauge died.

But we made it (with no sleep). Today a big sleep in. Tomorrow is a trip into town to get a new stainless halyard made and to stock the boat. The fuel gauge is repairable but getting fuel not so easy. The fuel pier is only 2.3m at high tide. We draw 2.5m, so it’s lots of trips with a Jerry can. The port/harbour is very busy with boats (some of the fishing boats and others are rafted together). 

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This morning we went ashore to see David and Jhoty. Andrew had made a loaf of bread for them. We also took some rope, fishing lures, caps and a couple of life jackets. We stopped and had a chat with them and their grandkids. Jhoty said they would be collecting firewood, coconuts and other food, and preparing this for tomorrow – Sunday. On Sunday the day is based around church with one service at 10am and the other at 3pm. Nothing else much is done on Sundays so Saturday is the day they prepare the food etc.

We did a bit of maintenance on Imagine. This afternoon we did a bit of fishing with left over steak for bait. Yes they have classy fish here (only eat steak). Sue caught a medium size fish. Not quite big enough for filleting, so it’s in the freezer for bait for next time.

This evening just before sunset the evening shower displayed a full rainbow over Imagine.

Tomorrow morning we are off to Suva for a few days.

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GPS: 17 14.976S 179 22.471E

We awoke to a beautiful day. After breakfast we lowered the dinghy into the water and headed ashore. We were met at the shore by David. David is the village chief’s right hand man. He took us to see the chief to present him with sevusevu, but he was away visiting another village. David being the right hand man was able to perform a small ceremony receive the sevusevu and make us part of the village, granting us access to land and sea.

He then gave us a tour of the village showing us where Cyclone Winston had created havoc although it hit harder on the other side of the island. David’s wife didn’t know that her photo was in the Fiji cruising guide, so we left her a copy. The photo had been taken last year by a journalist writing a bit about the island and the Americans that took 3 attempts to land there in WW2. We went ashore with kava roots for sevusevu and came back with coconut, pumpkin, bananas, and more.

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GPS: 17 14.976S 179 22.471E

Run: 32.8nm (59.4km)

This morning felt a bit strange having the boat to ourselves after having crew on board for 3 months.

Despite that we set sail for Taveuni but the wind had different ideas so we headed off to Koro Island. It was a pleasant full day’s sail with the only sealife encounter of a single dolphin. Tonight we have anchored at Vatumataua. As we have not long since arrived we will go to Nabuna village in the morning for sevusevu. More about that tomorrow!