We left Ofu island and headed back to Euakafa island. This time we went in from the south, through the reef and anchored on the West Side. This is where we saw the best Coral and range of fish in Tonga so far. There are plate Coral 3m across and fish of all sizes. We walked the beach and meet up with Makito who lives on the island. B found lots of big shells on the beach. The anchorage was well sheltered until the wind turned more north. This put us side on the the waves which made it a bit rolly at high tide. Our next stop was the Blue Lagoon. Everyone said we had to go there. After navigating the narrow passage in we anchored in the middle of the lagoon. We were well sheltered and low tide left the water like glass. We were surprised that the snorkeling was very poor. The lagoon was beautiful untill high tide, when the waves crashed over the reef making it another rolly night. Early this morning we hauled anchor and went in search of calmer waters. As we got out of the lagoon we came across two lots of whales cruising through, so we stopped and watched for a while. We then headed to Port Maurelle, where we have been before, and knowing it would be a quiet night there. After anchoring we jumped into the clear water for a Snorkel. We found a bommie full of fish which kept our attention for a long time. This afternoon we took the dinghy and explored the famous Swallow Cave. This is a stop everyone should make. The afternoon sun beamed into the cave lighting up the aqua water. The cathedral like cave towers above the beautiful clear water. Below the water is a large school of fish making patterns as they swerl around. We will be back to see this again.
And the sun goes down
The gentle rock of Imagine. The warm sun on our backs. We gaze out across the Bay, watching the waves crash on the reef. A glass of wine and a bowl of nuts. Pointing out the turtles peering out of the water as we scan the Bay looking for whales. After Bastille day we sailed to Mafane island for the night and then moved on to Kenutu island where we had been before.
On the way to Kenutu we stopped in a bay on east side of Ofu island to see if it was worth coming back to when the wind changed. As we cruised the Bay we found a mother Whale and her calf also checking out the Bay. I was up the mast and B was at the helm when she spotted something coming out of water, I straight away told her that it was a whale . She put the engine out of gear and glide slowly across the Bay. B got a couple of photos but just the tail (we will had them when we will have Internet again).
This morning we took the dinghy across to the neighbouring island (Umuna)and walked the track across it. On our way back to Imagine we did some snorkeling. This afternoon we headed across to Ofu island (our whales Bay) for more snorkeling and a walk along the beach.
There are no whales here at the moment, but we are still scanning the Bay as the sun goes down.
On the way to Kenutu we stopped in a bay on east side of Ofu island to see if it was worth coming back to when the wind changed. As we cruised the Bay we found a mother Whale and her calf also checking out the Bay. I was up the mast and B was at the helm when she spotted something coming out of water, I straight away told her that it was a whale . She put the engine out of gear and glide slowly across the Bay. B got a couple of photos but just the tail (we will had them when we will have Internet again).
This morning we took the dinghy across to the neighbouring island (Umuna)and walked the track across it. On our way back to Imagine we did some snorkeling. This afternoon we headed across to Ofu island (our whales Bay) for more snorkeling and a walk along the beach.
There are no whales here at the moment, but we are still scanning the Bay as the sun goes down.
Happy Bastille Day
This morning after breakfast B raised the French flag and saluted Bastille Day. We then went ashore to explore. There was a set of concrete stairs that lead up the cliff side. At the top there was a mandarins tree and several cow trails through the scrub. We eventually came across a dirt road and local farming paddocks. As it took an hour to get to the road we decided to head back to Imagine for a swim and lunch. This afternoon we did a few Paint jobs and rowed to other boats in the Bay to socialise. It’s always interesting to listen to other boaties stories.
No internet
This may be our last blog for a while as Tonga has ordered Starlink to cut off all internet services in the Tongan area. That leaves us with no emails, no blog, no weather updates.
Landline internet (buying a sim card) in Vavau is very slow and patchy as the underwater data pipeline has been damaged.
our plan was to sail north to Isle of Wallis then to Fiji. That may change and just sail to Fiji.
We will post again when we can
Paradise break
It even rains in Paradise. The forecast for the next 5 days are high winds and rain. There isn’t much to do in these conditions except find somewhere very sheltered and sit it out. What a dream life being stuck in a boat with the wind whistling and the rain falling. No visibility to go snorkeling, just play cards and wait.
We first chose a bay sheltered from the wind but the waves crept in. Disappointed by our choice we end up in Neiafu Harbour with 30 ofher boats. No safe mooring boy available, but we found a well sheltered anchorage a bit away from the crowdy city side. There has been a break in the rain, long enough for us to get ashore and buy some fresh fruit and vegetables. We think we will stay here until the bad weather passed. But as usual we take it day by day and see what happens.
Lots to talk about
Tuesday 2nd was another work day this time below the water. I used the dive gear as it was time to clean the barnacles off the hull. The hull wasn’t too bad, as Fabien and Nolwenn had previously done some cleaning.
Wednesday we moved around the corner to the next bay and spent a couple of days swiming and exploring. We went ashore where all the fishing boats were tied up, but nobody was around. The village was further along the road. We did however find a large spider and some pretty butterflies.
Friday and Saturday were supposed to be days with very little wind, so hauled anchor and did a bit more exploring. There are a lot of places that can only be accessed when the weather conditions are right. The first stop was supposed to be Mounu Island where we will meet up with Darren and Chrissy later this month, but we anchored around the corner of the next Island Avalau. We went to Mounu by dinghy and were greated by the two dogs from the resort. They escorted us as we had a look around the island.
Then after lunch, we cruised past several islands and bays. Some of them too hard for us to get to with Imagine, others too exposed to wind or swell conditions. After thirteen nautical miles we ended up South of Matamaka Island.
The anchorage wasn’t as protected as it looked. After a rolly night we hauled anchor and headed back to an island we couldn’t access yesterday because of the wind. Today we managed to anchor on a shelf 8m deep. Ten meters to the left it was 35m deep and twenty meters to the right it was 3m deep.
We took the dinghy ashore and walked the very short beach before snorkeling. The snorkeling was the best we have seen in Tonga. The water was crystal clear, there was new coral growth and lots of fish.
The anchorage was not suitable for an overnight stay so we have moved to a safer and sheltered spot for the night. We like playing cards while having our evening drinks. Sometimes it’s calm enough to play on deck.
Work day
It was 20kts south easterly wind, so there wasn’t much to do except take shelter. We were already in a very sheltered bay, only receiving 3kts of wind. B masked up the front deck and starboard side while I started painting. It took till 3:00pm, but all the deck has now been painted. There is only the trim around the toe rails to finish. That was enough for today.
Lost & found
We had our morning swim, not to the pleasant sound of birds calling, but to the sound of gensets and engines running. Several of the boats started charging their batteries early.
Later in the morning we dropped the dinghy into the water and rowed around the edge of the bay. The thick undergrowth parted in places to display coloured clifs and caves. The clear water revealed there isn’t a lot of coral growing in this bay, we just saw a lot of electric blue and black starfish. Also we saw a pair of jeans lying on the rocks but it wasn’t alive, thanksfully neither holding a dead human body. If it’s yours, please send a request to our lost and found department and we will give you the exact location.
We spent the afternoon doing a little maintenance, cleaning stanchions and repairing cupboard doors. Once again the sunset lit up the the sky with an array of colours.
With litle wind predicted for the day we headed off to the outer edge of Vavau. The western side is rugged with no Reef protecting it. There was very little swell and no fish. We trolled along the coast for while then tried drifting and fishing, but didn’t even get a bite. Last we anchored in two different spots, but it seems like the fish know about Imagine and run away!
We were able to sail back inside the island when the wind came up. High winds are predicted for the next week so we returned to a bay we new had good shelter.
In the bay the water was like mirror reflecting the sky, as we swam in the clear water. The only sound was the birds calling to each other. I took the wind generator apart and fixed it. We had the bay to our selves all afternoon untill 4:00pm. Then they came six boats one after the other. They all lined up as if they were about to charge us.
1000 fish
Its been a while since we we have been on our own. The routine is still the same, a swim before breakfast, then a few maintenance jobs. This morning I fixed the outboard motor. We had it service just before leaving NZ and it’s been playing up ever since. This morning I stripped the carburetor and cleaned the sticking float valve. Hopefully that fixes the problem.
After lunch we went for a ride in the dinghy and a snorkel that was quite amazing: we have been snorkelling through thousands of little fish. Then late afternoon we had another snorkel catching with the camera a couple of multicolor fish first time we have seen those since in Tonga.
Time is flying and it was already 5pm , wine time, sitting on deck watching another beautiful sunset.
