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On Sunday the wind had dropped to 15kts so we ventured ashore. We found a small beach where some kids were swimming and we carried on to the next beach. There were several local fishing boats tied up in the shallow water. We walked the street looking at the neatly kept gardens in front of all the houses. We came across a building with a lot of women sitting at tables. A closer look saw they were playing Bingo. Back on Imagine and another swim had filled the day.

Monday we were ready for a walk to the largest of the crater lakes on the island Lalolalo Lake. We took the dinghy to “The Marina” big enough for a few local fishing boats. Once on shore we started walking along the road. B with her thumb out. It wasn’t long before someone (Vitollio) pulled over and gave us a lift. He took us all the way to the lake, then waited while we took photos.

Silly us, we though we could spend some time swimming and exploring the lake. There was a lookout over the lake, but thats all. Although the lake is impressive with its cliffs with a shear drop to the water. Unfortunately there was no way back up the cliffs if you jumped or fell.

Vitllio then drove us back down the road to show us a beautiful Chapel. He left us there as he was on his way to work. After the Chapel B put her thumb out again and three young guys stopped to give us a ride. Two were painters and one was a mechanic. They took us back to the Marina, where some fishermen were heading out. It was a slow trip back to Imagine, as the tide had gone out and there was barley enough water over the reef to float the dinghy.

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We had another good night sleep being well sheltered in this lagoon. Despite the overcast weather we had our usual morning swim just before breakfast. Then while B worked in the galley and did some boatkeeping, I had a few repair jobs to do this morning, then we looked at our options for the rest of the day. Another boat came into our little lagoon, closer enough to say bonjour and went anchored at the other side of the lagoon. We thought after lunch we would go in the dinghy to explore our surroundings but the weather had a different plan for us.

The rain settled in as we had lunch. Then it hit. It only took minutes for the wind to get up to over 40knts (80km per hour).

That stretched the chain out putting us close to the reef. Too close. So B took the helm and I ventured out to the bow. B had to drive into the wind while I hauled anchor. It was not easy to control Imagine as she has so much windage at the front of the boat. That ‘s probably when one of the adjustable solar panels was blown by the wind and flipped over breaking the hinge to end on deck. We managed to move forward enough to drop 45m of chain with a swing room keeping us just off the reef.

The wind was blowing the rain so much it was stinging me. The rain was so heavy that we lost sight of the boat anchored in front of us. If they dragged anchor we wouldn’t see them until they were a couple of metres away. We stood at the helm for 2 hours checking we were not dragging and checking where the other boat was. We caught glimpses of it as the rain eased for a few seconds.

As the rain eased and the wind dropped to 27knts we could relax a little. B made us a cup of tea and we had a little debrief trying to relax after that very tense situation. What a welcome to Wallis!

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Although the wind was blowing all night the water was a little choppy but we had a good night’s sleep. We were up at daybreak we had breakfast and a little tidy up before heading ashore to clear customs. We found the little office on the wharf and we were welcomed by a friendly officer wearing a blue flowers shirt with Polynesian flower necklace. It’s good that B is French as the signage and paperwork was in French and the customs officer only spoke French.

After completing the customs paper work, he called the police to come to do the immigration side of things. The two officers that arrived spoke both English and French. Both of them were also very friendly and after all the official documents signed and stamped we had a chat with them, talking about their life on the island. One of them even invited B to go play indoor volleyball.

Once we were officially allowed into the country, we walked 3km to the supermarket. B thought she was in heaven, or at least in France. She was like a kid in a toy shop, going along the shelves saying “that is so delicious, you have to try this, you have to try that”. She even keep talking French to me as she has some difficulty to go from one to the other language Now she is playing French music. After getting a few more things than we needed, we hitched a ride back to Imagine. In a couple of minutes just outside of the supermarket 3 ladies in a car stopped and invited us to get in the car. They took us back to the wharf and mentioned that if any help needed just go to the “Préfecture” ( Police headquarters) and ask for Janine or Caroline.

With high winds predicted we moved to the south west end of the island. We swam and planned to settle down there for a few days rest. This place is called the blue lagoon which is an atoll inside the main atoll. This means that we are surrounded by reefs.

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Daylight came and the wind was still right behind us. So we kept the motor running. It wasn’t as nicer day as when we set off, mainly cloudy. Fatigue was already setting with B having a headache. As the day went on we ran into squalls. The weather continued the same throughout the night. It was getting harder to do the shifts, but as soon as daylight came it didn’t seem as tiring. Day two continued to be the same untill the afternoon when the wind shifted back to beam. Overall we did good time and late afternoon we sighted land. The sun was setting by the time we reached the atoll entrance and as soon as we got through the pass it was dark. We still had an hour of zigzagging through the reefs and bommies to get to the harbour. We called customs on thr VHF radio and got no response. Although the outer reef gave protection from the the swell it didnt stop the wind. We anchored off the main (only one)wharf and fell into bed.

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it was twelve o’clock (lunch time) by the time we set off. It was a beautiful day, 10 to 15kt wind off the beam, 1.5 to 2m swell chasing us off the back quarter. A dream sail out in deep blue sea. We were doing great time reaching up to 8kts of speed as we surfed the waves.

Night time came and as we continued sharing the shifts it got harder to stay awake as the night went on. The wind didn’t make it easy as it move directly behind us. This gave us three choices. 1 use the spinnaker (too hard in the dark with a 2m swell off the back quarter). 2 jib back and forth zigzaging our way (taking a lot longer). Or 3 turn on the motor and run with the main sail to one side (tied back with the preventer). We oppted for 3 it was far easier with us being tired. We were still able to keep a speed of 7.5 to 8kts.

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We hauled anchor and started the process of leaving Tonga. This ment going to the wharf outside customs. We were unable to tie up at the wharf as there were already two boats there. So we anchored and after a while it was obvious the two boats weren’t just waiting for customs but had other issues. So we put the dinghy in the water and rowed to shore. We went for a last quick walk to the fresh market and said goodbye to our favourite locals before heading to the customs office that looks more like a warehouse. The customs warehouse are very high tech : the customs lady sat at a desk installed art the very entrance of the warehouse in front of the wharf.Each time the wind blows all the paperwork flies everywhere and we had to help her hold on to it.. We also had to pay harbour fees. That lady had a little office in the corner of the warehouse. Once all the paper work was done we rowed back to Imagine and lifted the dinghy back on deck.

We hauled anchor for the last time in Tonga and headed out of the harbour down the channel and out into the deep blue ocean.

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We did a bit of chilling out in Port Maurelle, walking on the beach, snorkelling between showers and relaxing on deck (also between showers). We have been preparing Imagine for the next Bluewater crossing. We cleaned the hull to make us faster. We have sealed the vents and hatches, to stop any water getting in. We have attached the Jack lines, which we attach ourselves to when out on deck. But what we havent been able to do is get the weather to behave. So we have had a change of plan. We are now leaving Tonga for the Isle of Wallis (Wallis and Futuna) instead of Niuatoputapu, Tonga. The trip should take three days.

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Berengere (B) flew back to Tonga last night and this morning after a quick refill of veggies at the fresh market, we headed out of Neiafu. We didn’t go far. We dropped anchor in Port Maurelle an hour later. We will more likely stay here till next week, watching the weather, getting ready for the trip and just rest. As soon as the weather looks right we will head north to Niuatoputapu, the northern most Tongan island. It will take about two days sail to get there and it should be a nice stopover before another three day sail north west to Isle of Wallis (Wallis and Futuna French colonies).

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Water poured down her glistening black back as she came out of the ocean. At the last minute she turned to reveal her white belly. She fell backward into the sea creating a large splash as she disappeared out of site. Moments later she appeared spouting out water and sucking in a lung full of fresh air. She rolled on her side and started patting the water with her pectoral fin as she summond her calf. The majestic beauty of a34 ton whale playing with her baby.

Tonga is one of the few places in the world the you can swim with the whales. Sometimes getting only metres away from the graceful giants.

Sorry for the lack of blogs we had to leave Imagine in Vavau and rush back home for personal reasons. Normal transmission will resume next week.

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We had sheltered for several days as the wind and rain passed. This passed week we have spent time with my brother and his wife. Darren and Chrissy were staying at a resort on Mounu island and for three days we could anchor off the island before the wind changed again.

The first day they went swiming with the whales while we checked out a few more snorkle sights and went fishing out of the reef with the dinghy. B caught two fish, one snapper and one generous size a coral trout which made lunch for four the day after. The next days we took them sailing and snorkeling at our favourite sights. We also all went snorkeling at Swallows Cave, Darren caught a Tuna for lunch and saw lots of whales on the way. We spent the evenings having dinner at the resort.

We are now getting ready to head back into Neiafu Harbour.