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During our circumnavigation of Euakafa Island on Thursday, we came across a beach full of clam shells. So Friday morning we went back there to have a better look. B made a sculpture out of some of them.

When we left Imagine the bow was in 35m of water and at the stern it was only 4m deep. When we got back I was aware that the wind and tide had changed and now Imagine was facing the other way, with the depth sounder saying we are now in 40m of water. As lunch was being prepared, I was sitting in the cockpit when Imagine turned away from the wind. I knew immediately that the anchor had let go. There was no way the anchor was going dig in again as we drifted further off the steep ledge. We started the motor, hauled up the anchor and headed for Neiafu.

Our crew were leaving us Saturday so we decided to spend the night there so they could leave in the morning and so we could get to the fresh fruit and veggie market early.

This morning it was a goodbye to Fabien and Nolwenn as they thought they found a boat to take them to Fiji. B and I went to the market took the laundry to be done and walked to the petrol station on the edge of town to fill our jerrycans. We will fill them every time we go ashore to keep our fuel tanks topped up.

As we got back to the dinghy we met Fabien and Nolwenn. The boat that will take them to Fiji can’t take them onboard untill the 27th. So they are back onboard for another 5 days.

We have found a place to hide from the southerly winds for the next few days. Lape island is well sheltered and has some reefs for us to explore in the next few days.

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Yesterday we headed off in the dinghy to explore a sandspit we could see off in the distance. Upon arriving we declared it Imagine Island and raised the flag. Well, a bikini top and a sarong!The only in habitants of this island were a few crabs.

After lunch we went across to the next island where there use to be a resort, but now there was only Jerry. He was an American looking after the resort for the owners.

That evening we were invited ashore to a birthday party. All the boats in the bay had gathered on shore to celebrate Penny’s birthday.

This morning we hauled anchor and looked for a more sheltered place as the wind is going to swing to the south. We have anchored off Euakafa island. We went ashore and met the two locals. Then someone had a great idea “let’s walk along the beaches and around the island”. Several hours later and having to swim one third of the way, we made it back to the dinghy before the tide washed it away.

Back on Imgine we had sundowners and dinner on the deck watching the sun set.

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This morning we went ashore on Kenutu Island and eventually found a track that took us through the bush to the other side. The Eastern side of the island is very different from where we have anchored. It’s very rugged because it’s open to the Pacific, with no Reef to protect it. The red soil was reflected in the cliffs towering above the crashing waves.

After lunch we headed to Lolo, an island only 50m south of Kenutu. We climbed to the top only to be sprayed by the waves crashing on the eastern side of the island. The west side was so calm we could snorkle and the east side sounded by powerful 3m waves.

While snorkeling along the western side we came across a saltwater waterfall, being created by the waves on the other side.

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Sunday we changed location. We thought we would try the eastern bays. We stopped on the way to fish but we are still convinced that there are no fish in Tonga.

It was low tide and we tried to cut through the Reef to the eastern bays. The charts were saying 15m deep water when in reality the scattered bommies were making it less than 1m below us, so we had to turn back. This meant we had to go outside the main Reef and back in further north. I had a line trolling out the back of Imagine as we went.

Wow! there is at least one fish in Tonga. I pulled in a Mackerel and that made a nice lunch for the four of us.

We made our way back in through the Reef and ended up in a bay behind Neiafu (Vavau’s city). It was a quiet night.

This morning Fabien and Nolwenn went ashore to Neiafu to get some bread bananas and beers, while B and I did some maintenance. Once they were back we set off for Kenutu island. I was on the helm, B was up the mast and Fabien on the bow guiding me through the reefs and bommies.

This evening we went ashore to have sundowners on the beach, where we picked a couple of coconuts for the breakfast. After a walk along the beach the bitting insects drove us back to Imagine to have drinks on the back deck.

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Another quiet night, but the morning was not so quiet as the sky lit up by lightning followed by the rumble of thunder and rain. B made use of the bad weather by preparing meals with the defrosted meat from yesterday freezer failure. By lunch time the rain had stopped, so we headed off in the dinghy to a nearby island. The snorkeling was a lot better. Large starfish and a all range of fish hiding in the rock and coral.

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Last night was caped off with a beautiful sunset over glassy waters. This morning was again nice and peaceful. Just the sound of birds in the trees.

Later in the morning I went to climb the mast to repair a light when we discovered some wasps hanging around the main sail. It looked like there was about a dozen trying to make a nest in the folds of the sail. I carefully sprayed the sail with vinegar and water. That dispersed them for a while, but they came back. So we hauled anchor and raised the sail. We sailed for half an hour around to the next bay, but they still hung around. As I dropped the sail I sprayed it with vinegar again. It seemed to keep the wasps away. No they just moved to the mizzen sail! It took about an hour of spraying but they seemed to have left. 
Just after lunch B discovered that one of the freezers was not working. All our meat had defrosted. So the next few day will be precooking lots of dinners. Just what we want to do in this heat. At least the batteries will charge quicker with only one freezer running.

Otherwise it was usual live aboard stuffs: morning swim, snorkeling, taking the dinghy for a rowing ride ashore, story telling, cooking dinner, and sundowners.

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The sound of the water dripping off the oars with each stroke could be heard over the slapping against the hull as the dinghy glided through the water. The piece and quiet of the surroundings was broken by the occasional bird call coming from the vine covered jungle. The impenetrable greenery draped all the way to the water. We rowed along the edge of the bay. An old derelict house broke through the jungle at one point, with a track leading into the undergrowth. We didn’t venture in, just returned to Imagine and spent the rest of the afternoon on deck watching the ripples on the water and the sun getting closer to the horizon.

This bay was a vast change from this morning.
First thing this morning was peaceful before the other boaties woke up. We had already had our our swim and was having breakfast when it started. First one boat then another started chattering loudly and then the boat behind us started his on deck dive compressor. That was enough. We quickly packed up, hauled anchor and off. 

It wasn’t long before there was fish on the fish finder, so we stopped and tried our luck. It didn’t take long before we realised the fish finder must be a computer game, as it was showing fish but there was none to be had. We anchored at the nearby island, Sissia and Nolwenn and Fabien went for a snorkle while B made lunch.

We had just finished lunch when the rain came down and the wind went up. By the time we hauled anchor and made our way to a sheltered bay the sky started to clear alowing us to explore it.

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After a quiet night it was the usual early morning swim before breakfast. Then we all climbed into the dinghy and headed ashore. We followed a track to a small settlement with a church and a schoolhouse and a few houses. Each house had beautifully kept gardens most growing fruit. Nolwenn was upset that her hight restricted her from being a garbage collector in the town.

Back on Imagine we had entertainment as we sat on deck having lunch. A boat full of young people came in the bay and spent almost an hour trying to anchor. They had no winch, so each time they had 7 people on deck hand feeding and then pulling up the achor. They eventually found a place. The afternoon was more relaxing and swimming. After a last snorkeling to the closest shore, as Fabien wanted to see again the over 1meter black tip reef shark that he saw this morning, we had drinks on deck the bay filled with more boats and a beautiful sunset.

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Yesterday after the boats left us we thought we would follow them into Neiafu Harbour and the big city. We had to book in with Customs once again to let them know we would now be sailing around Vavau. We also had to see about extending our Tongan visa. It was quite an easy process once we had found there office and paid $400 for the two of us. We found a laundromat and left a small pile of washing. Next it was off to the fresh veggie market. By the time we had got there there wasn’t much left. It’s not yet whale season but there are whales around every corner.

Fabien and Nolwenn spent the afternoon at the Tropicana Cafe with free WIFI while we went back to Imagine. Last night we went out for dinner at the fish and chip shop. It’s a barge with a cabin on it anchored in the middle of the bay. A few people can eat dinner there but most order takeaway. They have a vast menu of Fish, Chips or Fish & Chips. We all chose fish and chips!. They have wine, beer, and make margaritas.

This morning we went back into town to get fresh veggies from the market before sailing back to Port Maurelle. Another relaxing afternoon, swimming snorkeling and walking along the beach.

All the boats in the bay had a visit from a local guy in his boat with a hi-vis vest on. He he is officially collecting anchoring fees. From the Community Reserve each time we asked him it was the Local Community and something else. Possibly a local community scam to support the local community. Along with all the other boats we paid the $20 fee to anchor for at least one week in the bay, then we will have to pay again.

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Friday we sailed to Haano the most northern Haapai island and found a nice sheltered bay. There was several reefs to snorkle around.

Saturday morning we sailed back to Pangai to pick up Fabien and Nolwenn, French couple who join us for a few weeks. We then sailed back to Haano and snorkeled some more.

At 3 am on Sunday we set off for Vavau. It was a nervous time winding our way through the Reef in the dark. Once we were out it was a nice sail despite our Autopilot “Jess” (Just an Electronic Steering System) not working. Fabien and Norlwenn made a good replacement. It took a couple of hours from when we saw land to working our way through the islands to a sheltered anchorage in Port Maurelle.

Within minutes of anchoring in the bay with six other boats, we were all in the water. We had a relaxing afternoon, reading, napping and sunning ourselves on deck.

We must have needed a shower or something because by this morning all except one boat had left the bay.