+4

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Today was a busy day running against the clock to move from that bloody anchorage. It has been 2 nights without much sleep as the swells against the tide make that anchorage very rolly.Anyway this morning it was time for Gina and Alex to say goodbye and Andrew dropped them at the Beach Resort just before 7am for them to catch the taxi to the airport. We were hopping for a dryer day but the rain didn’t agree and we had to lend Alex and Gina some wet weather gear to go to the beach in the dinghy. We cannot thank them enough for their positive attitude during their time with us as the weather hasn’t been great during their stay.After they departed we went back ashore with the laundry. The resort did our laundry for us while we went into town to get a few things to restock  Imagine.As soon as the laundry was ready we hauled anchor and set sail to a more protected bay around the corner.To get There we had to pass Million Dollar Point. It dosent look like much on the surface but below the water lie millions of dollars worth of goods dumped by the Americans at the end of WWII.

Million Dollar Point

After WWII the British and French colonizers thought the Americans would leave their goods behind, for using their island as a military base.To spite the British and French, the military made the rash decision to drive all of the vehicles, food, clothing, drinks, and other equipment to a wharf on the southern coast of the island. The army then drove all of the vehicles into the sea, used bulldozers to dump the rest of the supplies over the wharf, before also driving the bulldozers into the sea, ensuring that the European countries would not be able to get their hands on the items at all, free or otherwise. As a result of the dumping, the waters were contaminated with fuel, rubber, metal and other waste, leaving the local Vanuatuans shocked at the carnage, though they salvaged what they could once the Americans had finally departed. Today, you can make your way to Million Dollar Point and take a snorkel or scuba dive through the wreckage, should you desire to swim through this odd memorial to political spite. 

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This morning was grey, but not raining, so we decided to check out the town. Dinghy ride ashore then a walk through the resort brought us to the main road. There are no footpaths, we just had to walk on the edge of the road. On the way we past a sign promoting don’t litter Luganville. Then we came across a girls school just leaving on a school trip somewhere. You couldnt transport children like that in NZ.
The town was similar to Port Vila, shops that sell everything, supermarket and a fresh garden market. B and I went back to Imagine for lunch. Alex and Gina spent most of the day wandering around town.

+3

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We got up to a grey sky and it was a bit chilly for the morning swim, so we had breakfast first. As the sky seems to clear up a bit we all decided to have a go at snorkelling around the boat and thinking of getting to that Bommie close by.B took too much time trying to adjust her snorkel mask and the sky turned grey again, Andrew wasn’t so keen anymore and only Gina had a quick wonder around Imagine.We then decided to leave that magical bay and go to Luganville on Santo. B helmed while Andrew slept. It only took two hours motoring to get to the other side of Aore Island and across to Santo.
Then the rain started and it rained and rained and is still raining. The was a short period about 4pm, where the rain eased a little, so we jumped into the dinghy and went ashore. We had anchored outside a resort, so we went to check out how Alex and Gina could get to the airport Thursday morning. The resort booked them a taxi. We found we could use the resorts laundry and bar. It would have been rude of us not to use their bar facilitates, so we ordered drinks. Unfortunately by the time we had finished the rain was bucketing down again. Yes we got soaked getting back to Imagine, but that’s boat life.

+5

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We were up at dawn, hauled anchor and headed north. B at the helm guided Imagine around the reefs and out of Port Stanley. Gina then took the helm as we went up the coast. 
About an hour from our anchorage the wind died and we had to motor the rest of the way. We found good shelter at Port Lautour at the southern end of Aore Island.
As we anchored a large turtle popped it’s head up to say hello. It was only a matter of minutes before we had seen another three turtles. We all jumped in for a swim but the turtles stayed away. Tomorrow we will go snorkelling around the Bommie nearby.

+3

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For a Change, this morning instead of sharing a couple of pomeloes we shared only one but huge pomeloes ( the one that was given yesterday by Jack, the resort guy). It was so big it wouldn’t fit in the bowls we have cereal. On top of being huge it was absolutely delicious. We almost regretted not accepting more than one.
There was no wind, not even a slight breeze. The only ripples on the water were being made by Imagine gently sliding with the tide. It was so clear it seemed like you could touch the bottom (13m down). From the deck we watched the fish swimming around the coral. 
When there is work to be done, you can’t sit around all day watching the fish (just a couple of hours). I got out the dive gear and cleaned some of the hull. The barnacles have been growing fast. After that it was rest time, while Alex and Gina went snorkelling along the nearby reef. 
More relaxing this afternoon then it was all hands on deck to hoist me up the mizzen mast to replace a light. Now there is not much of a sunset but we will have sundowners anyway.

+3

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More pomeloes for breakfast. Then it was time to go exploring. We jumped in the dinghy and crossed the bay to another island. This village is richer than the ones we had just visited further south. They had boats with outboard motors and their houses were made of concrete blocks with reinforced steel. They also had cell phone coverage and a satellite dish (tv reception). We were sown around by a very proud father. This afternoon they were having their version of an engagement party. His daughter is getting married next month in Port Vila. So the village was putting on a celebration this afternoon. He invited us to return this afternoon to join them.

We then headed off to another small island but couldn’t find anywhere to land safely. So we motored across to another island with a beach and a rustic resort. Nanwut Bungalows was built by Jack. For anyone interested it’s 2500 vat per person per night including breakfast. Call Jack, Url Island, Vanuatu, phone 5252315. He has had only one set of people since Covid.

His grandchildren were there and had caught 7 fish from the beach. Jack gave us a pawpaw some pomeloes and cracked open a coconut for us to drink.

Back on Imagine B and Alex were inspired by the kids and decided to try fishing for lunch. I made a ham sandwich. B did catch a fish, but the hook was bigger than the fish. Everyone had sandwiches for lunch then we relaxed for the afternoon.

+1

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We had a beautiful sunrise, the first in a while. Coffee, swim , breakfast and laze around, interrupted by fishing. We have just had drinks and nibbles. We cant call it sundowners as there was too much cloud cover for a sunset. Gina is in the galley preparing dinner.

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It rained all night. Breakfast in the cockpit and we were serenaded by the rain drops on the deck. We spent the morning sorting through all the photos. Then at 10am the rain stopped and the sky cleared. We decided to go exploring. So we all piled into the dinghy and headed to the beach we are anchored off.
There is a small village on the island, but there didn’t seem to be anyone there, so we didn’t enter without an invite. Next we crossed to the mainland and to the wharf at Litzlitz. The piles on the wharf were covered in oysters wish made it difficult to tie up our inflatable dinghy. The workers on the wharf were pointed to where the shops were and it looked like there was a beach we could land on. After navigating the reefs and bombies we got close enough to see the beach is only accessible at high tide. So we made our way back to the wharf. After finding somewhere to tie up the dinghy we walked into town. Well it was two very small shops. 
One of the locals named Bella told us there was a market and supermarket in the next town Lakatora , only 15 minutes away. We started walking and after 10 minutes a truck pulled along side and offered us a ride. We climbed onto the tray of the truck and we were off. Five minutes later he dropped us off at the markets.
We wondered the market and then across to a series of shops before heading back. Half an hour later we reached the dinghy. The sunny side afternoon was again quiet relaxing time.

NOTE: Locals don’t relate time and distance like we do. At Litslits we asked how far the the market? Reply was “15 minutes if you walk fast” (she meant run).
On Emae we asked how fare is the school? The reply was “one cigarette.” He started smoking a cigarette on the beach and it would be finished when he reached the school.At Banam Bay we asked how fare is the school? The answer was “not far.” How long would it take to walk it. The answer was a shrug of the shoulders and “till you get there.” Well, let’s call it Islands Time!

+3

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After breakfast we set off for Port Stanley, thirty five nautical miles up the Malakula coast. Full main and stay sail gave us a 6kt speed. Unfortunatly it didn’t last long. By 10am the wind had dropped to 6kts, so the motor replaced the stay sail. Just as we finished lunch the wind came back. Motor off and stay sail out as the wind increased to 22kts. 
It wasn’t long before we reached Port Stanley and surfed the waves through the entrance. We checked out three places before dropping anchor off Surao island.Here we are sheltered from the swell but the low liing islands don’t give much shelter from the wind. Luckily the wind is supposed to die down over night.
We tried our luck at fishing but it’s B’s omelette for dinner. One day we’ll have fish. Gina made us all Moritos as a consolation prize.

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It was 8.30am by the time we had washed, had breakfast and piled everything we needed to repair their boat into the dinghy. Just before we left, Polo (one of the villagers) had come out in his canoe out to give us some fruits.A few of the villagers were already on the beach waiting for us. Once again climbed into the back of the Ute and headed down the muddy track.
When we reached the village and boat we worked out how we were going to go about it. We were the main attraction of the day, as all the village gathered around to see what we were doing. We each started sanding different holes in the boat. By the time it was sanded there was a big black cloud and rain heading our way. The villagers quickly found some tarpaulin and made a tent over the boat just as the rain came down. There hadn’t been enough time to secure it properly so everyone was holding the edges from blowing away.
Ten minutes later it was back to work. They cut up a piece of plywood big enough to cover the largest hole and we fibreglassed it into place. We epoxyed between three and six layers of fibreglass depending on how big each hole was. When we had packed up our stuff and the villagers all had a close inspection of the repairs, we told them not to use the boat for two days.
Back in the Ute and we were being brought limes, lemons, pomeloes, nuts and beans. They drove us back to the beach and helped load the dinghy.
This afternoon has just been a lazy time.

NOTE: This village are descendents of the survivors of the 1913 volcano eruption on Ambrym. All the villagers on Ambrym were wiped out. The survivors made it to the shore of Malakula and meany never returned to Ambrym, instead started the village Nduen here on Malakula .