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We hauled anchor and started the process of leaving Tonga. This ment going to the wharf outside customs. We were unable to tie up at the wharf as there were already two boats there. So we anchored and after a while it was obvious the two boats weren’t just waiting for customs but had other issues. So we put the dinghy in the water and rowed to shore. We went for a last quick walk to the fresh market and said goodbye to our favourite locals before heading to the customs office that looks more like a warehouse. The customs warehouse are very high tech : the customs lady sat at a desk installed art the very entrance of the warehouse in front of the wharf.Each time the wind blows all the paperwork flies everywhere and we had to help her hold on to it.. We also had to pay harbour fees. That lady had a little office in the corner of the warehouse. Once all the paper work was done we rowed back to Imagine and lifted the dinghy back on deck.

We hauled anchor for the last time in Tonga and headed out of the harbour down the channel and out into the deep blue ocean.

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We did a bit of chilling out in Port Maurelle, walking on the beach, snorkelling between showers and relaxing on deck (also between showers). We have been preparing Imagine for the next Bluewater crossing. We cleaned the hull to make us faster. We have sealed the vents and hatches, to stop any water getting in. We have attached the Jack lines, which we attach ourselves to when out on deck. But what we havent been able to do is get the weather to behave. So we have had a change of plan. We are now leaving Tonga for the Isle of Wallis (Wallis and Futuna) instead of Niuatoputapu, Tonga. The trip should take three days.

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Berengere (B) flew back to Tonga last night and this morning after a quick refill of veggies at the fresh market, we headed out of Neiafu. We didn’t go far. We dropped anchor in Port Maurelle an hour later. We will more likely stay here till next week, watching the weather, getting ready for the trip and just rest. As soon as the weather looks right we will head north to Niuatoputapu, the northern most Tongan island. It will take about two days sail to get there and it should be a nice stopover before another three day sail north west to Isle of Wallis (Wallis and Futuna French colonies).

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Water poured down her glistening black back as she came out of the ocean. At the last minute she turned to reveal her white belly. She fell backward into the sea creating a large splash as she disappeared out of site. Moments later she appeared spouting out water and sucking in a lung full of fresh air. She rolled on her side and started patting the water with her pectoral fin as she summond her calf. The majestic beauty of a34 ton whale playing with her baby.

Tonga is one of the few places in the world the you can swim with the whales. Sometimes getting only metres away from the graceful giants.

Sorry for the lack of blogs we had to leave Imagine in Vavau and rush back home for personal reasons. Normal transmission will resume next week.

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We had sheltered for several days as the wind and rain passed. This passed week we have spent time with my brother and his wife. Darren and Chrissy were staying at a resort on Mounu island and for three days we could anchor off the island before the wind changed again.

The first day they went swiming with the whales while we checked out a few more snorkle sights and went fishing out of the reef with the dinghy. B caught two fish, one snapper and one generous size a coral trout which made lunch for four the day after. The next days we took them sailing and snorkeling at our favourite sights. We also all went snorkeling at Swallows Cave, Darren caught a Tuna for lunch and saw lots of whales on the way. We spent the evenings having dinner at the resort.

We are now getting ready to head back into Neiafu Harbour.

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We have sheltered in a bay, where we have been before. We took a walkalong the beach to the reef at low tide. The rain has started, so what do we do on rainy days? We reupholster the seating. It is taking us a long long long time, nothing is straight, neither square and we haven’t choose the easiest pattern, but we have now completed the cushions seats and now have just started on the backs.

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Tonga doesn’t like Imagine or Imagine doesn’t like Tonga. I’m not sure which one. When I was here in 2019 the engine salt water pump stopped working and the Gopro camera that we use mostly for underwater videos and pictures, died. I had to get replacement ones sent from New Zealand. Funny but not funny this is happening again: the saltwater pump is leaking, which means it needs to be replaced as we cannot run the engine without that cooling water pump; and guess what?  the Gopro didn’t survived an accidental underwater case opening. Luckily my brother and family are coming soon to Tonga to meet up with us and they are kind enough to bring those items from New Zealand.

We have no more ham on the bone left and B keeps eyeing up the local pigs as we go down the road. She can only get close enough to take pictures. If you come across a three legged pig it may be that B caught it. The whole pig would be too much for our freezer. In Tonga pigs are like the cows in India, they roam free in the street.

B has been talking to locals and other boaties, which help us to find a place to buy a leg of lamb and some chicken breasts. The lady at the shop said that what was available now is all they have and the next shipment would be in two months. Also this morning B asked a local fishermen who was passing by Imagine in his dinghy,  chasing a school of mackerel  if he could catch some for us and he came back an hour later offering us two mackerel which I fileted straight away. This is Christmas in July!

After two days anchored in Neiafu, getting fuel and food we have had enough. Despite the winter season it is quite warm and humide here and we needed a swim, so we have moved back to Vaku’Eitu Island. There is a storm coming and this bay should give us shelter. 

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Starlink has a six month contract with Tonga, so we have internet back. We have uploaded new photos for the last three blogs, so look back at them.

We are back in Neiafu to stock up with fresh veggies. This is when we discovered the saltwater pump (cooling for the engine) is leaking about 1ltr per hour. Luckily my brother is flying to Neiafu next week and hopefully can bring parts.

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This may be our last blog for a while as Tonga has ordered Starlink to cut off all internet services in the Tongan area. That leaves us with no emails, no blog, no weather updates.

Landline internet (buying a sim card) in Vavau is very slow and patchy as the underwater data pipeline has been damaged.

our plan was to sail north to Isle of Wallis then to Fiji. That may change and just sail to Fiji.

We will post again when we can

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It even rains in Paradise. The forecast for the next 5 days are high winds and rain. There isn’t much to do in these conditions except find somewhere very sheltered and sit it out. What a dream life being stuck in a boat with the wind whistling and the rain falling. No visibility to go snorkeling, just play cards and wait.

We first chose a bay sheltered from the wind but the waves crept in. Disappointed by our choice we end up in Neiafu Harbour with 30 ofher boats. No safe mooring boy available, but we found a well sheltered anchorage a bit away from the crowdy city side. There has been a break in the rain, long enough for us to get ashore and buy some fresh fruit and vegetables. We think we will stay here until the bad weather passed. But as usual we take it day by day and see what happens.