Author Archives: Andrew Smith

Aqua water

We left Ofu island and headed back to Euakafa island. This time we went in from the south, through the reef and anchored on the West Side. This is where we saw the best Coral and range of fish in Tonga so far. There are plate Coral 3m across and fish of all sizes. We walked the beach and meet up with Makito who lives on the island. B found lots of big shells on the beach. The anchorage was well sheltered until the wind turned more north. This put us side on the the waves which made it a bit rolly at high tide. Our next stop was the Blue Lagoon. Everyone said we had to go there. After navigating the narrow passage in we anchored in the middle of the lagoon. We were well sheltered and low tide left the water like glass. We were surprised that the snorkeling was very poor. The lagoon was beautiful untill high tide, when the waves crashed over the reef making it another rolly night. Early this morning we hauled anchor and went in search of calmer waters. As we got out of the lagoon we came across two lots of whales cruising through, so we stopped and watched for a while. We then headed to Port Maurelle, where we have been before, and knowing it would be a quiet night there. After anchoring we jumped into the clear water for a Snorkel. We found a bommie full of fish which kept our attention for a long time. This afternoon we took the dinghy and explored the famous Swallow Cave. This is a stop everyone should make. The afternoon sun beamed into the cave lighting up the aqua water. The cathedral like cave towers above the beautiful clear water. Below the water is a large school of fish making patterns as they swerl around. We will be back to see this again.

And the sun goes down

The gentle rock of Imagine. The warm sun on our backs. We gaze out across the Bay, watching the waves crash on the reef. A glass of wine and a bowl of nuts. Pointing out the turtles peering out of the water as we scan the Bay looking for whales. After Bastille day we sailed to Mafane island for the night and then moved on to Kenutu island where we had been before.
On the way to Kenutu we stopped in a bay on east side of Ofu island to see if it was worth coming back to when the wind changed. As we cruised the Bay we found a mother Whale and her calf also checking out the Bay. I was up the mast and B was at the helm when she spotted something coming out of water, I straight away told her that it was a whale . She put the engine out of gear and glide slowly across the Bay. B got a couple of photos but just the tail (we will had them when we will have Internet again).
This morning we took the dinghy across to the neighbouring island (Umuna)and walked the track across it. On our way back to Imagine we did some snorkeling. This afternoon we headed across to Ofu island (our whales Bay) for more snorkeling and a walk along the beach.
There are no whales here at the moment, but we are still scanning the Bay as the sun goes down.

Happy Bastille Day

This morning after breakfast B raised the French flag and saluted Bastille Day. We then went ashore to explore. There was a set of concrete stairs that lead up the cliff side. At the top there was a mandarins tree and several cow trails through the scrub. We eventually came across a dirt road and local farming paddocks. As it took an hour to get to the road we decided to head back to Imagine for a swim and lunch. This afternoon we did a few Paint jobs and rowed to other boats in the Bay to socialise. It’s always interesting to listen to other boaties stories. 

New discovery

We were up at dawn, ready to set off for Port Vila. B took the helm and guided Imagine along our track through the narrow entrance. Once through the gap and in 13m of water, the Bay opened up. Our old track headed east back to Awei so B set our course south. Two minutes later there was a large grinding noise and we came to a halt. B had discovered an uncharted reef.
I took over the helm, put Imagine in full reverse and with the help of the swell we backed off the reef. I turned on the forward sonar but it looks like it got damaged. The sun wasn’t high enough and there wasn’t enough light to see the reef through the water. I moved a little port and tried again but made contact with the reef. Guessing I didn’t have much room to maneuver, I cautiously turned the boat around and was able to follow our old track east. When I thought we had gone far enough I turned back on course for Port Vila.
Danielle, worried we were sinking ran around below deck looking for water gushing in. There were no leaks as the large steel girder covering the front and bottom of the keel was there to protect the keel in these instances.
The rest of the day and night was uneventful as we sailed to Port Vila. B, Wilson, and Danielle took the opportunity of the light conditions to scrub the back deck (team work makes the dream work). Because of the wind direction, it took us 25 hours of tacking to get there.
This morning B, Wilson and I had coffee on deck watching the sunrise. After a chilled out morning we all went ashore in the afternoon for an ice cream. B met up with crew of Silver Fern, a 72ft yacht she had sailed around Tasmania on. Back on Imagine it was time for drinks and nibbles, all sitting on the back deck and enjoying the sunset on the bay. Andrew and B cooked dinner… Shark on mashed potatoes!
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Dinner

Tonight’s dinner started at the yacht club with a green coconut drink. Philip and his wife performed a welcome ceremony. We were the first boat to visit their island and village since Covid and they were very greatful to see us. We then each received a bowl of kava while waiting for the dinner to be ready. It didn’t take long before we were taken next door where dinner was served. There were four traditional dishes plus rice for us to try. There was fried1 fish, fish boiled in coconut milk, taro wrapped in island cabbage and a coconut and green bean sauce. It was all very nice.
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Two Days, One Blog Post

Yesterday, sadly, we forgot to write the blog. So sorry for all the loyal followers at home. Thank you for bearing with us in our delay. We will recap now. Our day began waiting for a delivery of bananas that did not materialise. After waiting patiently for one hour we hauled anchor and moved away from our position next to Awei. We sailed for around an hour to get to our next spot and thread Imagine through a tight gap into a bay bordered by a larger village. As soon as we made landfall we felt welcomed and were invited to see what life is like here. A local man, Josef, took us around to show us local crafts and secret beaches. We made another detour to see the school, exciting the school children that foreigners were there to distract them from school work. We also made plans that would set up our itineraries for the following day.
Today the morning began with Wilson and Danielle heading out to try and swim with some dugongs. The swell into the dugong area was quite strong, meaning the animals had to go elsewhere for food and only one was spotted. Since the dugongs weren’t showing up the tour detoured elsewhere to see giant clams and into another village to see customary sand drawings. B and Andrew found villagers in need of supplies and made personal deliveries to those who made requests. Items like plates, school books, and reusable jars were all in demand. The afternoon was spent with quiet time before going back ashore for a traditional dinner of fish, rice and taro. We all had our fill and enjoyed seeing what traditional food of Vanuatu looks like. Tomorrow will be an early rise to return to the big city of Port Vila. Wilson
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Off to school

This morning while having a cup of tea on deck after our morning swim, we saw Sofren paddling across in his canoe. Very sheepishly he asked if we could help him out. He and some others were going fishing and asked if we could take the kids to school. Before I had chance to say anything B told him of course, we would love to take them to school. We dropped the dinghy in the water and headed to shore where the four kids from the island jumped in the dinghy. As we headed across to the mainland against the wind, a few waves created a small spray. Everytime it happened the kids laughed. We took them ashore at another village. We then went back to Imagine for breakfast. The morning was filled with getting little jobs done. After lunch Danielle and Wilson went exploring in the kayak. B and I went ashore in search of Sofren but he was still out fishing. We had a visit from another couple who had been in the bay fishing. They gave us some coconuts in exchange for some rope. They said they would be back in the morning with some bananas for us. This evening Wilson and Danielle were introduced to the Boat Burger. Wilson managed it but it was too much for Danielle.
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Awei

We departed Emea early this morning and headed to Awei. We had to motor sail all the way as the wind was only 6kts. As we came around Awei island Chief Sofren his wife and brother were all on the reef fishing. We anchored Imagine and went ashore. Joslin, Fred and Sofren greeted us. We gave them the nails we had got for them to rebuild their house. Sofren let us walk around the village on our own while they continued fishing. Everyone was surprised at the difference from the villages on Efate and Awei. Even though Awei was quite poor, the village was so clean, tidy and welcoming. By the time we had got back to the boat it was sundowners time. That was when Andrew realised he had forgotten to get the mince out of the freezer for boat burgers. So Danielle is preparing a meat free penne ala vodka dinner tonight.
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Big day

This morning started with a swim before breakfast. Now that we have an inverter working it was time to get some work done. B did some cleaning while I fixed the anchor winch switch and relay. Wilson and Danielle caught up on emails and chatted with family.
After lunch we all went ashore in the dinghy with the new outboard. We first went to Kevin’s village but nobody was there, so we walked along the road (bush track) towards the next village. As we got closer we could hear someone on a PA system and lively music. It was a public holiday to celebrate the province and they were partying. They invited us to join in, giving us drinks of Kava and slices of cake. The man on the microphone talked to me asking what we have seen, why we were here etc. Then introduced us and gave me the mic to tell everyone what we were doing. The island chief took us aside to tell us about the village, then introduced us to different villagers. We also gave him some educational books and pencils for the school. These will go directly to the local school, educating the approximately 100 children on the island of Emae. After the donation we were introduced to the school director, who thanked us sincerely. In his gratitude the chief offered me his wild boar tusk bracelet, but I had to refuse his kind offer as I would not be able to take it into NZ.
After spending time there, we headed back to the beach and went for a walk along it. Back on Imagine we all jumped in for a swim. By the time B and I had installed the new shower pump it was time to sit on the back deck with drinks and watch the sunset.
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Meet locals

We set off early this morning. B and I were up before dawn and had a cup of tea before we hauled anchor. After we left Port Havannah we put up the Genaker. It wasn’t long before the little wind we had was right behind us. So we used the pole to keep the Genaker open. By lunch time the wind started increasing and we switched to the headsail. The idea was to to Maskelyne Islands. The wind had other ideas so we changed the plan and changed course to Emae Island. Once anchored it was swim time. Then I got the outboard ready and we headed ashore to meet Kevin, 25 years old who took us to his village, consisting of 3 little shacks, and met his family; 2 older women and 3 teenagers, 4 dogs, multiple chickens and one little pig (B took a photo of it but seems like she forgot to press the button so back on Imagine it was no photos). Anyway we will go back again tomorrow.
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